Flanked on both sides by the River Itchen, this humble looking pub isn’t the first place that might spring to mind when you’re seeking out exceptional food. With no need for pretentious frills or show however, the modest and understated charm is what I enjoy most about it here. Normally one to make a late arrival, on this occasion I found myself uncharacteristically early, as I waited for my colleague. Anyone who ever ate at Winchester’s Willow Tree would understand my eagerness, and as a return diner I was actually excited all afternoon at the prospect of my evening out!

I began with the Seared Scallops, which were delicately pan-seared. In fact, ‘delicate’ is a good word to describe the entire dish, in everything from the swirl of sweet corn puree, to the baby leaf salad. The best part of this starter was the fact that each scallop was topped with a poached quail egg, which was a novel element, and gave the dish a summery appeal. Nick chose the Marinated Sardine Fillet, which came as a brace of fresh fish marinated in garlic, red onion and lime. This rustic looking and ample portion provided layers of superb flavour, and even with a cold, he still enjoyed this dish immensely. With our view into the open kitchen we saw no signs of tension, stress or disarray, but instead a brigade of chefs working in complete sync; turning out fresh and carefully produced food.

The value for money at The Willow Tree is exceptional. Basted with a smoked hickory sauce, my 10oz Sirloin Steak somehow filled most of the plate. Encircled in a decorative pesto sauce, this was somewhere between being rugged and ornate, and as I pressed down on the succulent meat another dimension of flavour was released as those fantastic juices came out. Nick had the Confit chicken and wild mushroom risotto. Tender and stuffed with pepper and onion, this creamy risotto was brought to perfection by an eclectic and flavoursome array of mushrooms. “These mushrooms are excellent, and some I don’t even recognise”, said Nick, which is quite the compliment as he is something of a mushroom expert!

Despite having this dessert on my previous visit, it was so nice that I just had to re-live the

deliciously rich, layered Chocolate Mousse. With a dusty and flaky texture on its surface, this largely smooth creation was even better than I’d remembered. Nick had the Winchester Cheesecake, which in its presentation alone emanated indulgence, and was full of delicious nutty morsels.

At thirty minutes per course, our evening was paced perfectly, and before leaving, we sat pondering over our ales at whether or not there was a restaurant in the area that offered better pricing on such great food. Combining modern cooking techniques with a South African influence, the food choice here is diverse, always cooked entirely from fresh, and served with genuine courtesy and care.